The other thing you're not usually supposed to do with some dual battery systems, if you can help it, is use two different types of batteries. Or, by that same token, not re-charge your aux battery very quickly once the main battery has been fully re-charged.īut it will at least get you back to charging for now. If re-charging a completely dead aux battery then, you can overcharge your main battery if allowed to put out more current for longer than needed. Or tell the alternator to put more power to one battery than the other. It will pass the charge current through (minus a little to resistance loss) but it can't tell one battery from the other.
The isolator is simply a splitter with back-feed protection so one battery does not drain the other one. In theory it won't care where you do it, as long as it can see the main battery again.Īnd I don't think you will ever have true dual battery correct charging with most systems as designed. Whichever turns out to be easier from a wiring perspective. So instead of the normal "simplified" version of a 3g install, where you connect a short Yellow w/white wire directly to the output of the alternator, you need to run a longer version of it from the BAT #1 post on the isolator, back to the alternator's I wire.Įither that, or directly to the battery or starter relay. And the diode keeps any power signal from coming back from the batteries cables, to the ALT stud on the isolator, to signal the alternator on just how much current to produce. The isolator is basically just a big diode in a heat-sink to keep it cool. In this case, the #1 (main) battery stud on the isolator would seem to be the easy way. With a standard 3g and an isolator you will need to connect the Yellow w/white "A" wire like Ford did originally, which is directly to the Main battery's power. Should this "I" terminal be exciting the alternator? If so, why isn't it?Īm I going to damage battery one with it hooked up the way it is currently?Īgree with Steve, but you can make yours start charging again, at least for now with a quick extension of the Yellow wire.īut first, is yours an isolator rated for at least 130 amps? If not you might as well get it out of there now and go with Plan-B first. This makes me think with the current set up, I am over charging battery 1 with the jumper wire. With jumper removed it charges 13.5, when I touch it, charging increases to 14 volts. Once I touch the wire just for a second it starts charging. If I disconnect my jumper wire before starting is doesn’t charge. It has 12.5 volts with the jumper wire unhooked. I checked the green/red wire with the engine off with key on.
Before dual batteries the charge wire was hooked to the battery so it was always excited. I jumped the battery 1 post with the alternator post on the isolator and it works great. With it hooked up like this, it still needs to be excited. The "I" terminal (green/red wire) is hooked to an ignition source. The S wire is hooked to the black and white wire with the little grey clip (stator). I currently have the A terminal (Yellow wire) jumped to the B+ terminal (charge wire). But I am worried about over charging battery 1 if battery 2 is low. I currently have jumped battery one to the alternator terminal on the isolator and it works great. This system is not exciting my alternator. One for alternator and one for each of the batteries. Now I have a battery isolator with 3 terminals. Before I had dual batteries I had the 4 ga charge cable hooked to my starter solenoid and it had a direct path to battery power. A red top optima for the start battery and all accessories and a yellow top for winch only. The Smart Battery Isolator is available in 85A (48525) and 200A (48530) versions.I just installed dual batteries. No diode efficiency losses occur when using Cole Hersee’s smart battery isolator, and it also allows bi-directional charging from alternator or from other power chargers/converters.Įasy to install, the smart battery isolator also features an LED status indicator and operational start assist. It’s also smaller, lighter and generates less heat than competitive products.īecause the smart battery isolator reduces charging system workload by not connecting to the auxiliary battery until the primary battery is charged to 13.2 V, there is lower strain on expensive charging components, extending the product life. The Smart Battery Isolator provides a more flexible solution than traditional isolators, as it is not specific to an alternator type. Ideal for dual battery applications, Cole Hersee’s Smart Battery Isolator prevents loads on the auxiliary battery from draining the starting battery. Prevents loads on auxiliary battery from draining the starting battery
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